This past week I had a business meeting at the University of Maryland that would leave me only a few miles away from the Bladensburg Marina and Water Park on the Anacostia River. I'd asked a few local kayakers if it was worth trying to work in an evening paddle there, as the Anacostia River pretty much has the same reputation that Lake Erie had 20 years ago - on good days it might burst into flames, on bad days you would be tempted to light it on fire.
Cyndi was right about the Bladensburg Marina/Water Park - a great place to launch with a floating dock, restrooms so I could change from my grown-up clothes into my paddling outfit, vending machines - a really nice place that also rents kayaks and canoes on the weekends (I think also during the week if you call ahead.) Lot of interesting signs detailing Bladensburg and Anacostia history, back in the day when it was a navigable river and a major commerce thoroughfare. I didn't see a dredging pipe and even at dead low tide there was plenty of water at the launch, so maybe the dredging is over.
Cyndi was also right about the water - it is pretty gross. Not as bad as I feared - I didn't see any floating dead animals, or really any trash you don't see everywhere else, just a lot more of it. However, the water is that color that just looks like sewage. It didn't smell all that bad, but it also did not smell "outdoor fresh." It was also dead low tide - the shoreline is pretty disgusting at low tide. Although, oddly enough, this stretch of the Anacostia was speckled with tiger lilies in bloom - the first place I'd seen them all year.
Chip was right about the wildlife - lots of sunning turtles, many jumping fish. Not many birds, though - I did see a few embarrassed looking herons. They seemed to be thinking "Hey, I *could* be at Wye Island or Jug Bay or Eastern Neck - the herons there aren't any better than I am. I *choose* to enjoy the urban river experience. I happen to *like* eating fish with 3 eyes."
About 1.25 miles down stream from Bladensburg you go under the Route 50 bridge and the Amtrak/Metro railroad bridge. After that there are stone walls on both sides of the river, and it starts to get a bit more scenic. Chip was also right about low tide - the streams leading into the Aquatic Gardens on the east side, or into the Arboretum on the east side, weren't passable at dead low tide. Well, they might have been technically passable - but it just didn't look very inviting for exploring and potentially getting muck-bound at that water level. On the Arboretum side, the inlet goes under an elevated boardwalk and there was only about a 5 foot opening at this tide level. I did peek in - lots of bird life in there vs. out on the main river. At a higher tide it did look like it would be fun to poke around in there.
About 3 miles downstream I reached a power plant and the Benning Road and Metro bridges. I could see the Capitol St. bridge a bit further down, but I had sort of run out of time and I turned around. I concentrated on good paddling form, the better to minimize the amount of Anacostia water getting splashed onto my boat. As I approached the railroad bridge, an Acela Amtrak train went roaring overhead on its way to Union Station. I did see an eagle on the way back and four or five very depressed looking ducks ("Sally's parents landed at St. Michaels - she got to eat oyster crackers and french fries. I have to pluck KFC biscuits out of the muck.")
The Anacostia was also the only place I have ever seen empty osprey nesting boxes - bird real estate on the Anacostia is definitely a buyers market.
One big negative for me on this paddle was the noise - there wasn't a quiet second the entire 80/90 minutes of my paddle. Cars, trains, sirens, construction machinery (lots of beep-beep backing up going on), horns. The roar of an outboard motor would have been a blessing. I think even the Potomac at Georgetown is quieter.
To me, the joy of kayaking is in large part just being out on the water but also that peace and quiet and everything you hear as you glide along. The Anacostia is definitely not that kind of paddle - it is like hiking the Potomac Heritage trail along the Potomac - interesting to see how it can be done so close to the city, but there are so many better alternatives not all that far away.
I ended up only with enough time to do about 7 miles, 3.5 miles out and back. The weather was fantastic - 80 degrees, blue sky, a slight breeze from the north. I would like to do a one way paddle all the way to the Potomac when I have more time (and a shuttle), and this was definitely convenient for me since I had to be at the University of Maryland at College Park. However, I could have driven another 15 miles or so and put in on the Patuxent at Upper Marlboro and had much more pleasant conditions - and a bit more peace and quiet.
Great! A descriptive and honest read. I bike along the Anacostia and I think the noise and traffic along the river take away from the natural serene atmosphere that most outdoors-y folks are looking for in DC. If you get a chance check out the Anacostia Community Boathouse or try biking along Bolling Air Force base, it is beautiful.
Posted by: SoulScorp | 30 November 2008 at 05:23 PM